First things first: this is not the Baby Driver you’re thinking of. No car chases, no high‑octane heists, no Ansel‑Elgort‑with-sunnies moment. This Baby Driver is Melbourne’s take on cool — a hidden CBD gem that hums to its own soundtrack — ‘70s jazz, deep funk, vinyl grooves, cocktails, and plenty of good times.
The stylish sibling of Beneath Driver Lane, Baby Driver sits proudly on Driver Lane with an identity all its own. Candlelight softens the space, vinyl records stack the walls, and live jazz swirls around the room. It’s the kind of bar you step into for one martini and somehow end up staying for the whole set.
And right now, there’s even more reason to linger: a three‑month residency and kitchen takeover with Berbeo Bar & Grill, led by Colombian chef Juan Berbeo.
Martini Chats With A Hospo Visionary
The evening began with a welcome from Baby Driver’s founder, hospitality visionary Hamish Goonetilleke. Within minutes, a martini appeared in front of me — Slow Boat to China.
Here’s the thing: I’ve always had a soft spot for Never Never Oyster Shell Gin. But at Baby Driver, they’ve chosen Hickson House Oyster Shell Gin, and I’ll happily admit — it’s an incredible choice. Clean, savoury, with a gentle oceanic depth that carried beautifully through the drink.
Kim Ong, who joined me for dinner, described it perfectly:
“Took the Slow Boat to China last night. The mix of Hickson House Oyster Shell Gin, savoury liqueur and vermouth was a journey in itself… smooth sailing with a few delicious surprises along the way.”
Between martini sips, Hamish shared stories — the rollercoaster highs of opening venues and the resilience it takes to ride the lows. From the cult success of Beneath Driver Lane to the creative energy of Baby Driver, his career reads like a love letter to Melbourne nightlife.
Colombian Fire Meets Melbourne Funk
That night, the kitchen lit up under the hands of Chef Juan Berbeo from Docklands’ Berbeo Bar & Grill. Meeting him felt like meeting an old friend — warm, animated, and with a passion for grilling that beams from his whole being.
The menu told its own story. First came empanadas: one filled with savoury Wagyu beef, another with cheese and sweetcorn. Golden pastry shattered into flavourful, comforting fillings. Then a plate of green plantain fritters with guacamole, salsa and grilled corn — playful and authentic, the ideal bridge between Melbourne and Bogotá.
For mains, Kim savoured the Sher Wagyu inside skirt steak, smoky and deeply charred while luxuriously tender. I went for the pork cutlet on the bone, juicy and lightly blistered by the fire, paired with potatoes and salad that grounded the cut in simple freshness.
Dessert brought a leche asada caramel flan, silken and subtle, topped with crunchy cookie crumble and a tangy berry coulis. Another Slow Boat to China martini sealed it perfectly — elegant, balanced, and indulgent in the best way.
The Man Behind the Grill: Chef Juan Berbeo Kitchen Takeover at Baby Driver
We left the table completely satisfied — so much so that I was still full the next morning. Huge thanks to Chef Juan for cooking up a feast that lingers long after the night ends. Just as if the universe wanted to remind me of his magic, the next day my Instagram feed served up this Foodporn reel of Juan roasting a whole pig. Watch the reel here.
The Pulse of Melbourne’s Nightlife: Baby Driver Is More Than a Bar
Don’t Wait — This Residency Runs On Borrowed Time
With only weeks left of Chef Juan Berbeo’s residency at Baby Driver, now is the perfect moment to book in. Bring a friend, order a martini, let the live jazz guide you, and indulge in Juan’s heart‑and‑soul cooking before the next chapter unfolds.
Baby Driver, Melbourne City
- Address: 31 Driver Lane, Melbourne CBD, VIC
- Website: driverlanebar.com/baby-driver
- Residency: Juan Berbeo x Baby Driver, running until late October 2025
Disclaimer: This was an invited experience attended by Roslyn Foo and Kim Ong in August 2025, courtesy of Hamish Goonetilleke and Juan Berbeo. As per Glamorazzi’s editorial policy, our reviews remain honest and independent
